Cities Xalapa (Veracruz)

A friend of mine once said that Xalapa is almost as pretty as San Cristóbal de las Casas. I think he must have been drunk. Xalapa is a huge busy city with streets full of cars and houses that resemble carton boxes. It has a historical center, but a very small one and not even here you will get a rest from cars and noise. The only think these both cities have in common is great coffee. Coffee beans are grown and processed in the hills around Xalapa and the city itself has some very good cafes.

What here: There are few (very few) cozy corners hidden among the busy streets, most of them around the main square. You can get a view of Xalapa from the main square/park Juárez, check the unfinished cathedral or visit the historical building of the National Palace next to it. However the biggest attraction of the historical center is probably the clown that each night makes a show with his two rabbits on the crossroads in front of the National Palace.
Many people come to Xalapa to see the Anthropology museum (not as big as in Mexico City but also very nice). It presents mainly the Olmec culture showing some of the huge stone-carved heads. The museum opens: Tuesday to Sunday, 9 am to 5 pm, entrance fee are 50 pesos. It is about 20 minutes cab drive from the center (cabs are cheap in Xalapa, this one will cost you around 45 pesos).

Where to stay:

Posada del Cafeto. Really nice hotel set up in a tranquil street (hard to find in Xalapa) close to the historical center. The refreshing rooms are traditionally furnished, decorated in blue and white and set up around a very nice garden. Some rooms have balconies, all count with own bathroom, tv and a coffee maker. The complimentary breakfast is served downstairs in the playful cafeteria. Internet is available. The stuff wasn´t extremely friendly but we got what we needed. Over all, Posada del Cafeto was probably a highlight of my Xalapa visit. 

Price: 450 - 950 pesos (including breakfast). Tel: (228) 817-0023, www.pradodelrio.com

How to get here: Frequent buses leave from TAPO terminal in Mexico City. Direct ADO buses make the journey in 4,5 hours, slightly cheaper AU stops in Perote and comes to Xalapa in 5 hours. Price: 262 pesos. From Veracruz buses come every 30 minutes (94 pesos, 2 hours). 15 buses also come from Puebla (160 pesos, 3 hours).

The bus terminal in Xalapa is about 15 minutes drive from the historical center, authorized cabs charge about 20 pesos.